i have a 77 dodge w400 1 ton that has a hydraulic pump(electric belt driven) under the hood that controls the western blade and swenson sander. it was working fine when i took everything off in the spring. but now when i start the truck and turn the pump on it sounds like a fog horn till everything warms up and will still make the noise if i flip it on going down the road. it didnt before. I also noticed the blade lowers slowly now. I did put a new front lift hose on it and quick coupler to the tank to aleviate draning the tank each time i take the sander off. I was wondering if i have the wrong hydraulic fluid in it? i have quaker stare preimuim hydro tractor fluid for different brands. Could i maybe need something alittle thinner? and would it cause the blade to lower slowly?
Did you clean/replace the filter?
no, i havent changed it yet. i did take the return that hooks up to the filter and it is getting plenty of fluid when it first starts, just wondering if its too thick.
the local swenson dealer thinks i might have rust or something in the pump from sitting over summer or a bad clutch. swenson direct thinks i could have wrong fluid, bad pump, clutch.
no, i havent changed it yet. i did take the return that hooks up to the filter and it is getting plenty of fluid when it first starts, just wondering if its too thick.
the local swenson dealer thinks i might have rust or something in the pump from sitting over summer or a bad clutch. swenson direct thinks i could have wrong fluid, bad pump, clutch. The MFG will all ways tell you to use their fluid.
You are using a hydraulic fluid already, Is it the same fluid you always used?
The filter could be getting clogged/ restricted by sludge that settles on the bottom of the tank.
The electric clutch could have dirt/oil in it also.
the noise is due to pump cavation try thinner oil also check and or replace filter . The blade would lower slower if the oil viscosity is thicker.One more thing some couplers have u cups which are for pressure not vacume which can happen in a oil resavore, this can cause air in the oil.
i just picked up the truck in the spring. the coupling is 2175psi coupling.
the factory at swenson told me air wouldnt be getting into the system since im pumping the fluid out throught the return strong and it self bleeds through the plow lift arm.
weird system.
i just picked up the truck in the spring. the coupling is 2175psi coupling.
the factory at swenson told me air wouldnt be getting into the system since im pumping the fluid out throught the return strong and it self bleeds through the plow lift arm.
weird system. Most hydraulic systems will bleed the air out of them selves.
Be sure the fluid level is up to the full mark.Low fluid level will cause cavation in the pump resulting in noise, pump wear and it will allow more air to enter the system.
As for it lowering to slowly go back and double cheek your work. Did you replace both ends of the coupler or just one side?

Hi,
I have a Fisher Minute Mount that won't float. When I press 'lower' on the joystick it will not drop to the ground. I have to hold the stick down until the plow hits the ground. and then, even if I hold the stick down, it won't float. I'm also not able to push the ram down when the plow is dropped to the ground. Don't know if these problems are related.
Does anyone know why I can't get the plow to float?
Is there a light that indicates it's in "Float Mode"? If so, does it come on? Do you hold it for a couple seconds after it is on the ground? Then you leave it on while trying to push it down. Next, check that the wiring harness is securely connected. Inspect all the pins for any that are bent or damaged.
I had a new MM that didn't want to go into float sometimes. I'd have to hold the toggle down again after I tried pushing the triangle and it didn't want to budge.
Is there a light that indicates it's in "Float Mode"? If so, does it come on? Do you hold it for a couple seconds after it is on the ground? Then you leave it on while trying to push it down. Next, check that the wiring harness is securely connected. Inspect all the pins for any that are bent or damaged.
I had a new MM that didn't want to go into float sometimes. I'd have to hold the toggle down again after I tried pushing the triangle and it didn't want to budge.
Is that indicator light only on the fishstick?? i only know of a power light on the joystick controller.
Hi,
There is only the power light on the controller.
When I push down on the joystick the light goes out.
I can hold the stick down for 2 mintues and nothing changes.
Could it be something in the controlelr box?
I have a "float" light on my Fishtik and thought I remembered having it on the toggle switch, too. But it's been almost a year ago I sold it, so maybe I'm mistaken.
The joystick (the OLD way, before the invention of the Fish-stick) has no float button.
When you press down it enters float until it recieves another command (until the switch is closed for another circuit). Yes, that is the same problem why you can;t push down the lift arm- no float means no down.
Check the joystick contacts inside- make sure they are not interfering with each other. Each direction should be distinct.
There's no fancy electronics- you're simply closing switches in the box with the joystick handle, so the wires coming our "could" be jumpered (carefully) to deturmine if it's the joystick or something else.
since you have down when you're holding the stick down, I would investigate the float relay.
Mine does that every so often, too, right after I've put the plow on. If I wiggle the plug on the grille of the truck, it usually clears things up, and will be fine afterwards. Give that a shot before you go crazy troubleshooting. :)
Hi,
Thanks for the input.
I wiggeled the plug, cleaned it and plugged it back in and I still have the same problem.
The controll says float below lower. I will see if there are any cross in the wiring.
Thanks,
CR
If you have to hold the stick down to float I suspect it's controler related, but you mayhave a broken wire in the harness. It's common on the plow side of the plugs very close to the connector. Fisher sells replacement pigtailed connectors IF you determine that's the cause.
Thanks,
I will look into that.
CR

Can any of you folks down in Cinci recommend repair shop that will do good honest vehicle inspection for me. One of my wife's family members is looking to buy a used car and normally I would go down to check it over for them but right now I cant due to my own wheels being dead :angry: . And time is of the essence, so I need one that can get them right in, not waiting a week.
Thanks,
Brunosplace
Now I know we have some Cincy folks here, please chime in.
Check your pm ...
Where at in Cincinnati are they?
My in-laws are over in Anderson. But they are willing to take the car wherever I say.
The need a mechanic to give it a once over. I will call some guys in Milford if thats not to far for them. :salute:
The need a mechanic to give it a once over. I will call some guys in Milford if thats not to far for them. :salute: Or pass along the Name & number and I'll arrage it. Thanks
:waving: Auto Pros Chris the owner his place is on RT 50 by milford towing. I will look up their number at the office mon hope i helped I have another off of 28 also.:waving:
Thank you.

does anyone have the truck part of the wiring for a 8 ft. steel hiniker. I already have the plow and mount, just need the wiring to hook it up to the truck. Please help.
Thanks, Josh
I don't have an extra one, but i have seen the controls on ebay.
The rest of it I think I would just build myself and save some dollars.
I was gonna try and build my own but I almost need a diagram to go by. If anyone has this it would be a big help too.
thanks, josh
You should be asking this in the Hiniker forum, give me your email address.

Hello everyone here it goes I need some help today while towing an empty trailer with my 1996 f250 with 116,000 miles it began making a loud clunk then a bang and now it shifts really hard in every gear and the transfercase if floping around under the truck when i shift from r to d and visa versa is this a big problem and can I keep driving for another week with it like that till my appt.
sounds like your tranny mount gave up. if you keep driving it, it could cause any number of problems...such as...broken or bent driveshafts, destroyed u joints, damaged floorpan, busted motor mounts, cracked exhaust manifolds, broken exhaust hangers, damaged transfer case and/or transmission, broken bell housing....u get the picture. if you can avoid it at all....i would park it till it can be fixed. if the truck absolutely must be driven...if its an automatic trans...try shifting it like a manual, and let off the gas between shifts.
Could be a number of many things. Like it said might be a mount for the transfer case might be the trans itself, It may be a u joint gone bad look under there and see if the mount is broke pull around on the transfer case with your hands or pry a little bit with a crowbar without crushing anything obviously. Grab ahold of the drive shaft and see if there is any play in the u joints look for signs of spun greese etc. Check the trans and see if its throwing oil. Hopefully its just a u joint cause that will definately be a cheap fix. Definately Definately do not drive it unless you have too. You will certainly add up the costs if you do.
Could be a motor mount also. You can rev it while watching under the hood. Don't stand in line with the fan. You'll see the engine rock if one is shot. This could cause the transfer case shift lever to move around and noises from the exhaust or other parts hitting things.
If you can let the truck sit till it gets lookede at you'll probably be better off--If it's making noise but still drivable, it's only a matter of time before something else will break. Why chance more costly repairs. JMHO