Front end sagging;85 Dodge 250 stalling problems......;decode my vin#;when to use 4x4?
Front end sagging

I've done a search for this topic and haven't really gotten a good answer. So hear it is, I've got a 2002 2500 ram (old body style) without the plow prep package (it's got the towing setup on it). I just recently got done putting a 7.5 western pro on it and the truck sags alot more than I thought it would. I looked at timberens and they look to be a good product, but I have heard that when the plow isn't on the truck they make it ride rougher than normal? So I started looking around for some other ideas, so now it's either timberens, air shocks, or these orange bags that fit between the coil spring and the shock, or just leaving it alone.... So i need some input! Which will work better? and be less of a hassle? Any help would be great! THANKS!
You could grab a set of the good old Balloons that go inside the springs and inflate them in the winter and deflate them in the summer if you wanted to. We used to use them on our pickup trucks that we had.
I would go for a spring upgrade. Easy to swap in and can't be to expensive. The timbren's do work so it's your call.
ok remember that you should put weight in the a$$ end which will level out the truck timbrens will help also
Either do the spring upgrade or get the Timbrens. Putting in a set of Timbrens is cheaper than changing the front springs I bet. I have the Timbrens in my truck and with the truck parked, plow off, they are not touching, they are about a 1/2"-3/4" away from touching, therefor they do not affect the ride with the plow off. I was worried about the samething as you, getting a lousy bumpy ride from the Timbrens, but this hasnt been the case since they arent making contact with the plow off. I havent had the plow on yet since the Timbren install, so I cant comment on how the ride will be. I dont care if the ride is a little rougher with the plow on, as long as the Timbrens do what they are supposed to do, which Im sure they will from looking at how they are in there. Mike
check the tags on your'll probably want to go up a couple of numbers on the springs.I did this on the Dodge I used to have and it helped alot.I think the hot setup with the Diesel is 046 on drivers and 039 on pass. side.I would check with John DeMartino on this as he seems the most knowledgable on these trucks.
Here's a link to the specific model Timbren for your truck. I have the same truck/pkgs. as you and mine hardly droops. In fact I'm considering installing the 2" front levelers from Daystar or similar. That way the truck sits level year round. Requires an alignment afterwards and the pitman arm doesn't really need modding or replaced as some are led to believe. As mentioned, consider placing counterweight in the bed.
I just checked out these Timbrens also for the first time. I currently have air shocks for the front on my 92 and they do not hold air longer then a day or two. So I am worried about the ride when the plow (blizzard 810) goes on soon. I am considering Rancho 9100 series, Bilstein, or air shocks again. I have a 2.5 inch lift in the front to level out the overall truck so I am not sure if the Timbrens will help or not since they might sit too much of the springs. Not sure where the stock ones ride right now, will check tonight. Had Rancho 9000 years back and liked them for the ride quality but not sure if they would hold the extra 1000 lbs plow, even if turned up to 9? Would they extra weight damage them? Bilstein make adjustable or equivilant?
GMC,like was mentioned ,check your tags and see what you have now.Being a gas truck you should have o38 or lower numbered coils.You can go up one step if your looking for about a 1" raise in the front end.If your looking for closer to 2" raise get 2 new springs.If you have 038/037,and want a 2" rasie,get 0046/039,this will stiffen it quite a bit. I havent tried timbrens on the front of the Dodges,but I did try Monroe Muscles SLE's. I can tell you without a doubt DO NOT BUY the Monroes.I sent mine back ASAP for a full credit.I delt with Shock warehouse they did great by me. I called Monroe about 4 times,worked my way up to the engineers that design and test them.I battered him with questions until he admitted they did not work well on the Dodge's.Once i got that out him,I asked him the obvious question then why do you have a listing and sell a produt that doesnt work. The problem with the Monroes is the truck only sits 1/2" to 1" off the Monroe stop without the blade.Any bump bottoms the truck on the monroe rubber "which is rock hard,and the truck then is basically riding on the frame. Here is the page from a TDR member that lists all the factory springs availabe and there rates.
The Timbrens are a hundred times better than the Monroe muscle LSE.They don not affect ride quality at all with the plow on,they actually make it better.With the plow off,it is slightly stiffer,but not much.They do prevent bottoming better too.
If you have anything in the 037\038\039 range for front springs,then upgrade them.I usually go 047\048 combo,and it's pretty stiff.I am usually loaded heavy all the time,so it's no big deal.The 046\047's are a little softer,but will hold the plow up better than what you have now.
This may be a stupid question, so sorry if it is, but why 2 different spring numbers? Why not have 2 of the same in the front? Are the numbers different because there is a right and left, like a strut or caliper, or are the numbers different because they are a different firmness? Judging from the replies above, Im thinking its because of the firmness of the spring, but I dont understand why not have the same on both sides in the front. Is that because its compensating for the driver sitting in the driver seat? Mike
Dodge offsets the spring rates,with a stiffer one on the drivers side to compensate for the fuel tank and the driver on that side.
They all have very similar installed heights,so you can't really see a difference.
I have had no problem using identical springs,or ones with less ofset.
Well I decided to go with the timberens, the air shocks just seemed like they were going to be to much of a hassle. I've got one more question for you guys, a buddy of mine bought a ram 2 years ago and a mechanic at the dealer told him he should bring the truck in before the plowing season starts and have the bands in the trans adjusted?? Has anyone heard about this?
Yes and I would definatelty recommend that. Along with a trans. flush. I skrewed my 727 3 speed by not having them adjusted. The trans. shop said a band slipped and messed up almost everything else in my trans. If I would have had them adjusted then I might have saved $1300 on a rebuild. My local trans shop will adjust them and do a complete flush and filter for $130. .:crying:
Good choice on the Timbrens.Air shocks don't belong on the front end of that heavy truck.
I adjust my bands every year,it pretty easy.The $130.00 for the trans service and band adjustment isn't bad either if they are doing it right.
The shop I go to is awesome. They give me a commercial warranty on any work done. They are locally owned, and always win the auto service award for my town every year. If thats a good price, then I will stick with them, cause I know their work is awesome. I've only had work done from them, cause of my experience and their reputation around town, so I had no idea whether I was getting a good deal. But I'm glad to know that I am.
One of the reasons why I went with Air Shocks is because from the factory in 92, if you got the Plow Package, they replaced the normal shocks with Air shocks. Since my normal shocks are gone, I need some type of shock and figured why not air for now and hopefully get Rancho 9000 for the summer. I don't tow or haul, just normal 35,000 /year driving. Air shocks help for the plowing but I will admit, they don't deliver the best ride for the summer.
Thats the thing I was concerned about was the ride with the air shocks. Going from a 1/2 ton gmc to a 3/4 dodge was a big difference in ride quality so i didn't want to make it any rougher than it already is.
Hey guys, with the new blizzard hooked up, the truck has a pretty good rake to it when it is raised. I can get a pair of coils from Napa for a 3500 for $124. I was wondering what the spring rates are on these. Napa doesn't have the rates, but we are going to need something stiffer. I was also wondering how much ballast you guys recommend to run in the back.
85 Dodge 250 stalling problems......

This has been driving me crazy for over a year now. Have an 85 250 Sno Commander 318/auto that used to run great. Now, the truck hessitates big time under acceleration UNLESS you are really gentle on the soon as you try to accellerate harder it immediately begins to sputter and hessitate. It also happens when I angle or raise the plow. Again, when you angle or raise the plow, anything but the lightest touch on the gas, and the truck dies. Everyone was convinced it was a fuel delivery issue that was being caused by debris in the tank. Well, I dropped the tank, cleaned it (it's a plastic tank), put a new sending unit and all new lines all the way to the carb and it is still doing it. Also recently had the carb rebuilt. Any thoughts?? HELP!!
Is your truck a full hydraulic or an electric/hydraulic style? Full hydraulics will only have a single lift ram for the plow and what appears to be a second power steering pump on the engine to work the plow. The Electric/Hydraulic style will have an E-47, E-60 or E-57 Meyers pump/lift mounted on the front plow mount.
I would guess that you have an electrical/ignition problem.
When you lift or angle the plow, you are putting additional load on the engine (either electrically or hydraulically).
How many miles are on the truck? I'm guessing one of the following is the problem:
1.) ECU (Electronic control module for the ignition) - possible internal electrical problem
2.) Distributor - couple of possibilityes here:
a) electronic pickup going bad.
b) worn bushings
c) sticking advance weight/broken advance spring
d) cap/rotor need replaced
3.) Coil - Possible that the coil isn't putting out enough spark under load
When was the truck tuned up last?
How far from Harrisburg are ya? :D
decode my vin#

any info i can get. is it all time 4wd?is it all wheel drive(heard some models were)
1975 dodge w200 cab is bronze in color with yellow and black stripe on side.
model w20
t.o.n. fb628401
8000 gvw
this is info on door jam.
Your vin won't tell you that info. The W in the vin means it is 4wd, but that's all. Do you have locking hubs on the front axle? If you do, you have 'part time' 4wd. If you don't have lockouts on the front hubs, then you have full time 4wd that can be locked or unlocked at the transfer case. Tell me what the axle is like at the hubs and what the transfer case lever has for positions on it and I'll tell you more.
when to use 4x4?

I just bought my first 4x4 truck and was wondering when to use the 4x4. I know you use it when there is snow covered/icy roads and your not suppose to turn with it on. So do you plow with it on or off since you turn sometimes when plowing?
You can turn with it engaged. Read your owners manual. NEVER use 4x4 on dry pavement you'll damage your drivetrain (unless you have full time 4x4- not common). Some people plow with it others, like myself, only use it when 2wd won;t get me where I want to go.
I use 4x4 as soon as i start slipping. I think there's nothing more pathetic looking than a big truck, spinning its tires. But, If I can get by without it, I try to.
My step-dad (a wrecker operator) used to say... "4-wheel drive gets you twice as far into the snow/mud/woods/trail before you need to call a towtruck"
If you put at least 5 or 6 hundred pounds of ballast in the back of your truck and have good mud/snow tires you can use 2wd most of the time.
When you drop the blade and start to push and the truck just stops, but you know you didn't hit anything, you know it's time to engage your 4wd. Like these other guys said, you use it when you need it and as soon as you can, disengage it.
I plow approx 80-90% in 2 wheel drive. Unless you have ice underneath or massive quantities of snow it is not needed. With that said, I also carry salt in the back for weight and salting after plowing. I look at it this way, if you get stuck in 2wd you can put it in 4wd. If you get stuck in 4wd then you need help or worse (a wrecker) to get out. Last reason, i plow in 2wd is that is that much longer the 4wd components are going to last. I mean you should engage it in 4wd throughout the year periodically (only off-road or wet pavement) to keep everything lubricated and operating, but don't wear out the equipment if you don't have to. It is not cheap to repair whether it is brand new or older than dirt. Just my 2 cents.
If one had a Suburban or similar in the mid '70's and +-'80's, they had permanently engaged front hubs, (capped where finger knob would be), and a differential integrated inside the tcase. Alot of people updated(?) to manual locking hubs, but of course the tcase still allowed operation of 4wd on dry surfaces. I think that the advantage was you had a "slippable" 4wd. I have a good friend that just sold his '77 Superban, (after 20 years!), and he used to describe the advantages, and how he could "bypass" the center diff. and lock into the desired range for needed traction. Seeing how most (all?) American trucks used New Process tcases, I'll bet that the NP203's, 205's, 208's and the like are somewhat interchangeable between the big 4. (Don't forget Rambler!) :guns: :nod:
In the mid '70's to +-'80's, all(?) Suburbans and the like came with permanently locked front hubs. There was a cap over the hub, no finger knob. To cope with that, the transfer case had a center differential. This allowed one to have a "slippable" 4wd tcase. The floor lever allowed you to "lock" the tcase for serious 4wheeling. Or plowing on slippery surface that turns to dry, then snow covered etc. Like in real life, when the sun dries the pavement, but there's snow and ice to deal with a few feet away. Since New Process made all(?) transfer cases for the big 4, (don't forget Rambler!). :guns: :nono: one would think that there's a certain amount of interchangeability between TH350/400/700R4, TF727, C6 etc... Seems like the best of everything!

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